Kim's Forever Roses
|Ch = chain
||p = picot
|ds = double stitch
||Slt = shoe lace trick
|R = ring
||sep. = separated
|cl = close
||CTM = Continuous Thread Method
Wind your shuttle with thread. Tie ball and shuttle thread together.
Leave ends hanging. The ends will be covered with tape when the rose is
finished, and meanwhile it will be a help to hold the rose while you are
working on it.
One rose is composed of 4 small petals, 4 medium petals and 4 large
petals joined at the base in a circle, and continuing around and around until
all the petals are completed. Be careful that the petals don't twist. I
have used Opera Size 20 thread or 3 strands of Embroidery thread.
For the base and 1st petal
Start at the knot tying the ball and shuttle threads
together with Ch of a p, 1 ds, mock p.
Ch 6, Slt,
R of 2 ds, 5 p sep. by 2 ds, 2 ds, cl. *
Ch of 3 ds, 3 p sep. by 3 ds, 3ds.
R of 2 ds, p, 2ds, join to 4th p of previous ring, 2 ds, 3 p sep. by 2 ds, 2 ds, cl.
Repeat from * until there are 7 rings with chains between.
Join the last ring to the first ring at the fourth p on the 7th ring and the second p of the first ring. Slt.
Ch of 6 ds. Join to the first p on the starting base chain.
Ch 4 ds, 2 p sep. by 4 ds, 4 ds, join to middle p of ch in previous round.
+ Ch 4 ds, 3 p sep. by 4 ds, 4 ds, join to middle p of previous round.
Repeat from + 4 more times.
Ch 4 ds, 2 ds sep. by 4 ds, 4 ds, join to the mock p on base ch.
This completes the first petal.
Continue on with the base chain and 2nd petal.
Ch 1 ds, p (this picot will be used later to join
the base ch of the 5th petal in a circular fashion), 1 ds, p
(for petal join), 1 ds, mock p.
Make the same as the first petal.
Repeat from ^ two more times for the 3rd and 4th
petals. Pin petals together as you finish them, using a safety pin, to keep them out
of the way while you are tatting the next petal.
Continue on with the base chain and 5th petal.
Ch 2 ds, p, 1 ds, p, 1 ds, join to the first free
p on base chain between 1st and 2nd petals, 2 ds, mock p.
Make the same as previous petal, but repeat from * until there are 8 rings
with chains between. Continue in the same manner as for the previous petals until joined to the mock p on base ch.
Repeat the base chain and the 5th petal 3 more times for
a total of 4 medium petals, joining the base chain to the next free p between
the 2nd and 3rd petals and so on.
Take the first petal and roll tightly.
Arrange 2nd, 3rd, 4th, etc. petals around the 1st petal, overlapping the edges. Pin with a safety pin to hold together. Roll and pin other petals as they are made to shape the rose and keep them out of your way. Be careful to keep going in the same direction and to keep the petals from getting twisted or turned
around (this has happened to me). Keep your eye on the free picots in the
base chain (there should be 3 or them around the circle) and join the new
petals to these as you proceed around and around.
Base chain and 9th petal
Ch 2 ds, p, 2 ds, p, 2ds, join to next free p between petals, 2 ds, mock p
Make the same as previous petal, but repeat from * until there are 9 rings with chains between.
Continue on the same as for the previous petals until joined to the mock p on base ch.
Repeat the base chain and the 9th petal 3 more times for a total of 4 large petals, joining the base chain to the next free p between petals. Cut and tie threads together leaving 3" - 4" ends. The ends will be taken care of when the flower is assembled. This completes the basic rose.
In nature, roses come in a variety of shapes and sizes. Here are some
ideas to help you create a variety of them when making a bouquet.
- Make only the first 4 to 5 petals and roll tightly to make
a rose bud. Use the calyx pattern for the rose bud that will follow.
- Add more petals to make a fuller rose.
- When you have completed the number of petals that you want don't cut and tie your threads, but turn back and work an extra row around the large petals with a ch of 3 ds, 3 p sep. by 3 ds, 3 ds, repeat joining to every other p around the petal. Join to the base and start around the next petal until each large petal is done (I usually make 6 large petals).
This makes a larger fuller rose.
Calyx for Rose
The calyx for the rose involves the techniques of slit rings and split
chains. It can also be made the conventional way by doing each round and
cutting and hiding ends before starting the next round. I would encourage
you to learn the techniques of split rings and split chains because you will find,
with a little practice, that it will make following this pattern so much
easier. I used 3 strands of green Embroidery thread for the calyx.
Wind 2 shuttles with the CTM.
With shuttle #1
R of 3ds, p, 3 ds, large p (not only will 4 other rings be joined to this picot, but it also needs to be large enough to be slid up over the wire stem of the rose. Please allow a little extra for this.) 3 ds, p, 3 ds, cl.
*Ch of 2 ds, 3 p sep. by 2 ds, 2 ds.
R of 3 ds, p, 3 ds, join to large p of the first ring, 3 ds, p, 3 ds,
Repeat from * 3 more times. There should be 5 rings joined at the center.
The last chain is a split chain to form a bridge to the next round
Ch of 2 ds, p, 2 ds, work a split chain of 2 ds, p, 2 ds. Your tatting
will be cup-shaped, not flat.
Make a slit ring with 3 ds, p, 3 ds, on one side and 3 ds, p, 3 ds,
on the other side, cl.
Ch of 3 ds, p, 4 ds, p, 4 ds, p, 3 ds.
R of 3 ds, p, 3 ds, join to the middle p on the chain of the previous
round, 3 ds, p, 3 ds, cl.
Repeat from 3 more times.
The last chain is a split chain to form a bridge to the next round.
Ch of 3 ds, p, 4 ds, work a split chain of 3 ds, p, 4 ds, ending with a mock p to start the next round.
Ch of 4 ds, p, 4 ds.
R of 3 ds, join to next p on previous chain, 3 ds, p, 3 ds, p, 3 ds,
Ch of 3 ds, p, 3 ds.
With shuttle 2,
throw a ring off the chain of 2 ds, 5 p sep. by 2 ds, 2 ds, cl
Ch of 3 ds, p, 3 ds.
R of 3 ds, p, 3 ds, join to the center p on first ring, 3 ds, join
to the first p of the next chain on the previous round, 3 ds, cl.
Ch of 4 ds, p, 4 ds, join to the center p of the chain on the previous
Repeat from 4 more times. Cut and tie threads to the mock picot and
Calyx for Rose Bud
The calyx for the rose bud is made a little smaller by shortening the
chains of the 2nd and 3rd rounds. The chains on the
2nd round are all 3 ds between the picots. The chains on the
3rd round are also all 3 ds between the picots.
Put end of wire stem through the tatting at the base of the rose and
twist the end around the wire stem.
Thread the calyx onto the wire stem until it is tight against the rose and the rose is sitting in the cup shape of the calyx.
Thread the remaining ends from the tatted rose down through the center of the calyx while you are bringing it up the wire stem.
With florist tape wrap the stem well from the base of the calyx and rose to
the end inserting rose leaves where you want them.